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Grigne

The Grigne, with an unmistakable shape on the pre-Alpine horizon, host numerous hiking trails in a precious natural environment, high-level trekking of varying difficulty but all profitable.

The Grigna, also called Grignone, is the highest peak of the Grigne group, located in the province of Lecco at the turn of Lake Como and Valsassina that separates the group from the Orobie Alps and from the Resegone. The maximum peak reaches 2410 m s.l.m. and, just below, it hosts the Rifugio Brioschi, one of the historic shelters of the Lombard Pre-Alps, owned by the CAI of Milan.

The mountain is essentially composed of three slopes:

The south-western, the Grignetta, the most steep and alpinistically interesting, which descends towards the eastern shore of Lake Como, the eastern, grassy and wooded, which slopes gradually towards the Valsassina and the northern one, Grignone, which forms a large glacial basin (Moncodeno) lowering towards the Cainallo Pass and the Esino Lario area, a very well known speleological area due to the large amount of cavities and abysses, which represents the second karst system deepest in Italy.

In the mountaineering field the Grigna is known for climbing to the “Sasso Cavallo“, which in the south wall contains streets up to 500 meters. Among these the most famous are the “via del Det“, the “Cassin“, the “via della Luna“, “the other side of the Moon“, “10 floors of softness“, “Ibis” and “Crazy Horse”.
On clear days, the Grigna is visible from the entire Lombard Po valley due to its position and height.
In the speleological field the Grigna is instead known for its abysses, which are the deepest in Italy and reach -1313 m (Complex of the Releccio). The water that runs through these caves constitutes the source of the Fiumelatte, already studied by Leonardo, located 8 km away, in the municipality of Varenna.

The panorama that can be enjoyed from the summit is very famous, for its relative isolation and for the distance from other peaks of similar or greater height: it includes the entire north-western alpine arc, the Bernese Oberland, the Matterhorn, very well it is You can see the Monte Rosa as far as the inner Swiss peaks and the mountain ranges on the border with the Triveneto. In the event of a windy day, even the Duomo of Milan can be sighted.

The normal ascent route is on the eastern side, and begins in Pasturo.

Thanks to its less harsh landscape, the Grignone offers several excursion possibilities that share a splendid view over the central and western parts of the Alpine arc.

Even the small Grignetta hosts a dense network of paths scattered with cozy shelters, ideal for planning unforgettable walks and climbs such as the excursion to Piani Resinelli. From the Grignetta branches off the imposing rocky complex of the coast of Mount San Martino and Coltignone, which shelter the city of Lecco like a wall.

The particular vertical characteristic of the Corno di Medale, the San Martino, the Sasso Cavallo and the slender and variegated spiers and towers of the Grignetta gave impetus to climbing starting from the beginning of the twentieth century. Lecchesi doc have linked their name to these summits: Riccardo Cassin, Carlo Mauri, Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa, to name a few, great mountaineers in the name of which are linked unforgettable pages of the history of mountaineering and numerous rock routes in the Grigne.

Those who started climbing in central Lombardy have certainly taken their first steps into the mountains on the strange and treacherous dolomite of the Grigne. In particular, the Grignetta, whose landscape dominated by spiers, pinnacles and towers, represents a veritable university of the vertical in which they studied not only the famous red sweaters of the group of Ragni di Lecco, but also famous names of international mountaineering.
Climbing in Grigna means entering a distant and unique world, all a stone’s throw from the city.

In Grignetta you can’t miss the Mushroom Tour, on the Central Pylon the Via Zucchi, which with its 190m of altitude is one of the longest in the area, a never trivial IV + that gives emotions to those who recently wears shoes.

Another tour that cannot be missed by those who stick to the Grigne rock is the Torroni dei Magnaghi which links the Spigolo Dorn (6 pitches, 70m, IV +, with Via Lecco (4 pitches, 120m, IV +), in the middle a ten meters long traverse characterized by the cat’s pass, or a split to pass from the southern tower to the northern one, a passage that is not at all difficult, but that offers a plastic pose with great happiness of our cameras.

Other ways to go and that are a strong attraction for every climber: the Cassin at the Torrione Palma (7 pitches, V + / 5b, 220m), which offers a high mountain climbing, on a spire with a view of Lake Como, the Via Tapiocre at the Cecilia Tower, the Via Gasomania al Sigaro Dones (3 pitches, 6b + / 6a, 120m) a short itinerary, but with challenging and very varied passages, typical of the Grignetta.

Speaking of cliffs to be mentioned, the very classic Discotheque and Lariosaurus with some throws for all tastes, while the picturesque Pala del Cammello is for those who master the sixth grade. If you are looking for quantity and quality, then head to the Parete Stoppani over 50 routes from the 5th to the 8b.
Better if accompanied by certified mountain guides.

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